Use a white smooth brush to cover the rough areas, but leave the hair and edges. Hide the copy by clicking the eye icon on the Layers Palette. Set the radius to 2 pixels , and change the Blending Mode to Vivid Light.
We can see now, how the details become more vivid in this image. Make it visible. Select Anisotropic , and then click OK. Add a Layer Mask, and hide all areas except the hair. Zoom in to see the result. Set the Saturation value to 20 to give this image more color. You can compare this final result with the original image, by simply holding the Alt key, and clicking on the eye icon of the original layer image.
You can download the PSD here. Please enable JavaScript in your browser to enjoy a better experience. Step 1 Open the Cosplay Girl image. Step 3 Now I want to level it, to make this image better. Step 4 Target layer 1, and double click it to bring up the Layer Style dialog box. Step 5 Take the Color Sampler tool, change the Sample Size to 3 by 3 Average , then point it to one of those remaining spots in this image.
Step 6 Repeat step 4, but this time in the Layer Style window, do the opposite by dragging the black triangle to the right. Step 7 This time we want to trace the midtones. Step 8 Now target Layer 1, double click it to bring up the Layer Style dialog box, and then reset those triangles to the original post. Now, with the Sampler tool still active, you should indications as shown below: You can use actual pixel mode when tracing those spots, to get more accurate results, but in this case, I think what we did before is enough.
Step 9 Now, create a Levels Adjustments layer above layer 1. With the Use Legacy option selected, which means I'm currently using the old version of the command, I'm going to try increasing the brightness of my photo by clicking on the Brightness slider and dragging it towards the right.
The further I drag the slider to the right, the brighter I'll make the image. There's no specific value to set the Brightness amount to, so I'll keep an eye on my image in the document window as I drag the slider. The photo certainly does appear brighter at this point, but at what cost? Everything in the photo is now brighter, including the shadows which I didn't want to brighten, and I've lost image contrast because of it. The brightening effect looks more like there's a film or layer of dust covering the photo.
Here's a "before and after" view to make it easier to see what's happened. The original image is on the left and the increased brightness version is on the right:. Let's take another look at our Histogram palette, where we can see what's happened. If you compare this histogram with the original one, you'll notice a strange thing - they look exactly the same! Every peak and valley looks exactly as it did originally, except for one key difference.
The entire histogram has been moved over towards the right, as if I clicked on it and dragged it over with my mouse, and that's because every brightness level in the image has been lightened by exactly the same amount. The only part of the histogram that looks different at this point is the area on the far right, which has been pushed up into a tall spike along the right edge. This tells us that parts of our image where we used to have highlight detail have now been clipped to pure white:.
By lightening every tone in the image, we've lost contrast, so the logical next step seems to be to try and fix it by increasing the amount of contrast with the Contrast slider. I'll click on the Contrast slider and drag it towards the right to about the same value that I dragged the Brightness slider a moment ago. Well, we've definitely brought back quite a bit of contrast, but again at what cost?
We've blown out even more of our highlights to pure white, with large areas of snow along the bottom of the photo as well as in the mountains having lost all detail. In fact, the snow along the bottom now appears to be glowing!
At this point, the image just looks harsh. It's brighter than it was originally, but with so much detail now missing, it would be tough to call it an improvement. Here's what the histogram is showing. The spike on the far right is now even taller, telling us what we just saw with our own eyes, which is that we've clipped even more of our highlights to pure white, and if we look on the far left of the histogram, we can see another spike forming, this one telling us that we're starting to clip some shadow detail to pure black:.
What's happened is that with the old version of the Contrast slider, Photoshop simply takes the brightness values in the image and stretches them out evenly left and right, as if someone was pushing down on the histogram trying to flatten it.
The further you dragged the Contrast slider towards the right, the further apart you would stretch the brightness levels, and it wouldn't take much before you were clipping your highlights and shadows. Continue dragging and you'd clip even more of the image to black and white, with Photoshop happily allowing you to destroy the image without giving it a second thought.
You could actually spread the brightness levels so far apart that there's virtually nothing left of the histogram other than tall spikes on each end:. Thankfully and quite surprisingly , all that has changed as of Photoshop CS3.
Let's take a look at just how big of an improvement the new version really is! Shortcodes, Actions and Filters Plugin: Error in shortcode [ ads-photoretouch-middle ]. Images to be used in print documents generally need a higher resolution. If you are having your document professionally printed, check with your printer for their recommendation.
Images to be used online can generally have a lower resolution. The resolution will affect file size and load time. For a discussion of suggested resolutions and the relationship between pixel dimensions and resolution, refer to Photoshop CS3 Help by searching " image resolution.
HINT: For best results, do all fine-tuning and adjusting of the image before you lower the resolution.
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